When Dogs Eat Greenery

It’s a rare dog that never partakes of a tender stalk of juicy grass—and some dogs practically graze. Dogs are omnivores and it’s likely their diet in the wild would include fruit, berries, seeds, herbs, and a variety of grasses (despite lacking the enzyme to digest grass). On occasion, grass-eating is an attempt to induce vomiting or otherwise soothe a digestive issue, and it’s speculated that dogs also instinctively seek out certain herbs as a cure for other ailments. Because of the connection with gastric upset, it’s always worth paying extra attention if your dog suddenly develops a ravenous appetite for grass. Look for vomiting that lasts more than a few days, blood or mucus in the stool, and lethargy. Any of those should trigger a visit to the vet for a full checkup.

Absent any other symptoms, don’t worry if your dog snacks on the foliage—and perhaps a bit of soil in the bargain. If nothing else, it’s good roughage.

To Be Or Not To Be...A Dog's Dog

We all want our dogs to play nice with other dogs—and shouldn’t it come naturally? Dogs are social, after all. So why does an otherwise sweet-natured canine buddy turn into a killjoy at the park? Well, dogs can be introverts, too. Like humans, they can have bad days and they occasionally form instant dislikes to new dogs. But where we get to choose our friends and are free to avoid anyone we can’t stand, dogs pretty much have to go wherever we take them. What’s more, they are territorial creatures, protective of their favorite things, their home turf, and us. Adding another dog to the equation, familiar or not, always holds the potential for fireworks.

Let Sleeping Humans Lie...

Some dogs don’t appreciate a good lie-in—or know the difference between workdays and weekends. Young puppies and senior dogs can’t be expected it to hold it all night and are legitimately excused, but adult dogs should know better. If your dog has taken it upon himself to be your personal alarm clock, here are some tips.

Half Dog, Half Kangaroo

Some dogs are born jumpers. If you have a champion jumping bean on your hands, the first thing to remember when muddy paws land on your favorite pair of slacks is that your canine companion isn’t jumping on you out of rudeness or in an attempt to dominate you. Rather, it’s a case of misplaced enthusiasm. She is overjoyed to see you and this is how she shows it. That said, a jumping dog is tough on the wardrobe and can be downright dangerous when the dog is big enough to knock you down, so here’s a look at why dogs jump and what can be done about it.

Half Dog, Half Kangaroo

Why dogs jump. Jumping up on us is canine for “hello, gorgeous!” It’s a greeting and a way to get close to our faces, the source of good stuff like eye contact, kisses, and enthusiastic noises. As it happens, dogs greet dogs with much less jumping—scientists speculate that jumping evolved in dogs specifically as a greeting of humans. Too bad they didn’t develop an automatic sit, right?

The remedy. The good news is that dogs can learn polite, human-style greetings. The trick to a harmonious life with a dog who thinks she’s a kangaroo is to teach her a new way to greet you. First, let your dog know that jumping doesn’t work as an approach to get attention. Don’t push her away, yell, or bring your knee up—those responses are more than enough attention to keep your dog jumping. Instead, ignore her. Turn your back and walk away. Only give her your attention when she has all four paws on the floor. If you do this consistently, your dog’s greetings will change (and your dry cleaning bill will shrink accordingly).

Does your dog jump on houseguests and strangers? Contact us to get help!

The Special Bond

You’re not imagining it. Your dog really does understand what you’re feeling. Dogs can’t read our minds, no, but when it often seems like they do, it’s because of a special connection between our two species that’s increasingly well understood. Dogs don’t just seem attuned to our emotions. They are. Eye-track studies of dogs have shown that they read human faces for emotional cues in the same way we ourselves do. No other species do this, not even chimps. Scientists speculate that this skill has evolved in dogs to enable them to communicate with us on an emotional level. To better understand us. Which makes sense. When you rely on humans for your survival, there’s obvious biological advantage to reading their moods for signs of intentions, impending danger, etc.

The same goes for barking. Wolves rarely bark, and when they do, it’s to warn other pack members. Dogs, on the other hand, possess an impressive vocal repertoire that spans yowls, yelps, grumbles, whines, acoustic sighs, and many types of barks, suggesting another trait dogs may have developed exclusively to strengthen their teamwork with humans. This goes beyond utilitarian purposes like herding and protecting our livestock. Arguably, dogs have learned to speak a second language specifically to support their bond with us.

And the connection goes both ways: We’ve become skilled interpreters of barks. In experiments in which researchers played recordings of dog barks to dog guardians, they were capable of distinguishing between request barking, anxious barking, territorial barking, and other kinds, without seeing the dog’s body language or the situation. We use the tonality, frequency, and interval of barks to decode the message.

So, the science backs us up: We do indeed have a special bond with dogs. It’s so strong that we mostly take it for granted and lump dogs in with the rest of the family—because they are family. But dogs are not human. They are remarkable, adaptive creatures that have evolved in partnership with us in a way no other species have. And that’s pretty special.

The Great Crate

The crate is a marvelous tool: Good for short stints of alone time and for getting your dog to settle down, great for house-training and travel. Worried a crate is just one step up from imprisonment? No need. Like coyotes and wolves, dogs are den animals that enjoy close quarters. That said, it would be unkind to simply deposit a dog in a crate if he’s never seen one before—it would also likely trigger loud and long-lasting objections. Here are some tips for making the great crate a success:

Use irresistible treats. Treats, comestible and in toy form, are the way to get your dog to fall in love with his crate. Stock up on liver treats, Natural Balance, chicken bits, or whatever makes your dog sit up and take notice. Make sure you have a favorite toy or chewie set aside for crate training time, and don’t break out that particular goody for anything else.

Go slow. Only gradually increase the amount of time you ask your dog to spend in the crate during crate training. Likewise for the amount of time you leave him alone in the crate once he’s used to it. Going slowly is the key to success. Remember, you’re building a positive association to last a canine lifetime.

Exercise first. Make sure your dog has had a good workout before each crate training session. Crate training goes faster and works better if your dog has worked up an appetite and—for when you get far enough in the training program to leave him alone in there—is nice and tired and ready for a snooze.

Note: Never leave your dog in the crate for more than 3–4 hours at a time, except for bedtime.

Troublesome Teens: Four Survival Tips

Two-legged kids are not the only ones to go through an awkward phase. Adolescence—usually thought of as the period from four months to two years of age, a little later for larger breeds—often feels like an honest-to-goodness teenage rebellion. Your young dog develops selective hearing, seems to forget manners they know well, and reverts to puppyish behavior like mouthing, jumping, barking, and destructive chewing. Disheartening as such apparent setbacks can be, remember that adolescence is a phase. It, too, shall pass. Meanwhile, here are five tips for keeping your sanity intact and raising a polite, easygoing adult dog:

Be consistent. Consistency in routines, training, and expectations is key. Just like human children, young dogs do better with boundaries and rules in place.

Practice Nothing For Free. Whatever your dog wants—dinner, treats, walks, belly rubs, play sessions, attention, a spot on the couch—have him ask for it nicely by sitting or doing some other behavior he knows. If he doesn’t listen, he doesn’t get the belly rub or treat or the ball thrown and will have to try again a few minutes later. Applying this rule consistently will motivate your dog to listen to you.

Take a class. Now is a great time to take training classes or engage with a private trainer to get tips and regular training time in. You wouldn’t consider your human children’s education finished after elementary school, right? Think of this time as junior high for your dog.

Pile on the exercise. The more doggie workouts you can fit in, the better behaved your dog is likely to be. Exercise is the antidote to adolescent hyperactivity. (Just consult with your vet before undertaking strenuous sports. Don’t go running with your dog until he is at least 18 months old, for example; it may damage bone development.)

Home Alone & Not Happy

Dogs are intensely social creatures that find it hard to spend hours alone each day. Often, problematic dog behaviors can be directly attributed to boredom and loneliness: Chewing, digging, barking, and separation anxiety. Avoid these pitfalls by giving your dog activities to keep him happily occupied in your absence. The ideal combination is one of physical exercise and mental stimulation.

Working out the body. Passing the day is easier if you’re napping. Exercise makes your dog healthier, happier, and much more calm. For absences of a few hours to half a day, be sure to give your dog a workout before you leave. Throw a ball or a Frisbee, play tug, or let your dog play with other dogs for 20–30 minutes. For absences of more than 4 hours, consider getting a dog walker (if you haven’t got one already) or, if your dog is social and enjoys the company of other dogs, enrolling your dog in a doggie daycare.

Working out the mind. Mental stimulation—providing outlets for natural canine energy—will also help to keep your dog out of mischief. Interactive toys come in the brain puzzle variety (hide-and-seek boxes), chew or dissect variety (plush toys with squeakers, Nylabones), and food puzzles (stuffed Kongs, treat balls). If you have only one dog, another good option is the MannersMinder from Premier.

Note: Separation anxiety requires expert assistance. Email us if you see any of the following: Excessive barking, urination or defecation within minutes of your departure, excessive anxiety when you’re getting ready to leave, frantic greetings when you return, digging or chewing at exit points (doors, window frames), self-mutilation, and escape attempts.

How to Pill Your Dog

If you can, sneak pills into your dog either by getting chewable medication from your vet, mixing the meds in with your dog’s meal, or sticking the pill inside a soft treat like cheese or hot dog. If that doesn’t work, the procedure is:

1. Hold the pill with one hand. Place that hand on your dog’s lower jaw, the other on his upper jaw. Lift up his head.

2. Open your dog’s mouth and put the pill to the side of the tongue as far back as you can reach. Quickly remove your hand and close your dog’s jaw. 

3. Keep your dog’s head tilted upward and his jaws closed. Encourage him to swallow by gently stroking his throat downward with the other hand. As soon as you think your dog has swallowed the pill, release him and offer him a yummy treat.

(Instructions courtesy of ASPCA)

Treibball classes starting soon!!

Treibball (Try-Ball) Urban Herding for ALL BREEDS!

Classes begin in February 2012

Tuesdays @ Fido’s Farm

 

Come and try out the up and coming sport of urban herding with your dog. THIS SPORT IS OPEN TO ALL BREEDS! The game involves your dog "herding" yoga balls into a goal area. We will introduce you to the sport with videos and basic training. We will begin training your dog to push the ball and go out to a mat to get into position. Are you and your dog looking for a fun activity to do together? Come try it out! For more information - click here!

Work for Food Toys

I know we talk about Work for Food toys A LOT at Happy Dog Institute, but we want you to understand the value these toys have! Not only do work for food toys keep your dog from getting bored while you are away, but they can buy you some "puppy free time". It also develops your dogs problem solving skills and keeps them engaged in the "hunt". Here is a video of Heather's new puppy, Newton, getting his food from the Kong Wobbler

Newton also gets Busy Buddy toys, stuffed kongs, raw bones and bully sticks to help with his new teeth coming in but more importantly his mental stimulation. A tired puppy is a happy owner and Heather is reminded of this on a daily basis since she brought Newton home.

Raising a Puppy

Are You Ready For This?

In addition to being joy-spreading, frolicsome, heart-stealing little creatures, puppies are also a great deal of work, and preparation is key to making your puppy’s entry into your life a success all round.

Buy puppy equipment. At a minimum, you will need: Food (everyday meals, chews) and bowls. Puppy crate. X-pen or baby gate. Kong and treat ball. Flat collar, harness for walks. Long and short leashes. Canine toothbrush and toothpaste, nail clippers, dog shampoo, and brushes. A variety of toys.

Set up puppy areas. Create a confinement area (a cozy den for your puppy, despite the penitentiary connotations) for alone time and potty training. The area should be easy to clean and easy to close off with a baby gate. Think kitchen, laundry room, or bathroom. Furnish the area with a bed or crate, a water bowl, and several toys.

Decide on routines and responsibilities. Call a household meeting to discuss with other family members who has responsibility for what and when. Agree on set routines and procedures for consistency. For example: Who will be in charge of the puppy’s house-training routine? Where will the puppy be allowed—on the bed? The couch? Who will walk the puppy? Take the puppy to classes? Practice homework?

Find good dog professionals. E.g. veterinarian, groomer, dog trainer, daycare facility, dog walker, pet sitter, etc. Choose and register for puppy class or hire your private puppy trainer to make sure you get a spot with a top professional. Are you getting your puppy close to a holiday? Then plan well ahead for any sitting or boarding arrangements. The best sitters and facilities get booked up far in advance and you don’t want to risk your puppy having a bad experience.

Summer School 2011

 

Click here to download the full PDF version of Happy Dog Institute's Summer School 2011 Newsletter.

Will Work For Food.

Does your dog scarf down meals in mere seconds? Then both of you are missing out. For dogs, eating should be work. First of all because searching and hunting for food is natural for canines whose ancestors spent the majority of their time this way. And second of all—and here’s the major benefit to you—switching to a work-to-eat strategy keeps your dog wonderfully occupied during your absences. That means he won’t be splitting apart the couch cushions or getting into the trash or barking up a storm at the squirrels in the garden. In other words, you won’t return home to a stack of written complaints from your neighbors.
 
Instead of just serving up your dog’s meals, try feeding him in treat puzzles or Kongs that he gets when you’re not home. This way, your dog will spend half his day retrieving his food and the other half sleeping off the mental effort. The result? A calmer, more content dog.
 
The key to a successful work-to-eat program is to start simple and only gradually increase the level of difficulty. You can go low-tech by hiding your dog’s food under a laundry basket or cardboard box, or inside an empty cereal box. Or you can use interactive food toys like BusterCubes and Kongs.
 
Kongs in particular are great because you can easily make the food retrieval task more difficult—and more rewarding—by varying the type of stuffing and the tightness of the layers. An easy Kong might contain loose kibble and chicken bits and be plugged by peanut butter or wet food. An advanced Kong might be a many-layered masterpiece that includes Natural Balance cubes, dog biscuits, wet food, and your dog’s favorite table scraps if you indulge him in such culinary delights.

For a great selection of "Work for Food" toys, visit the new Fluffy & Floyd's Pet Supply store in Tumwater in the Southgate Shopping Center.  You can also check out their website at www.fluffyandfloyds.com.


To download the full PDF version of Happy Dog Institute's 2011 Summer School Newsletter, click here.

Summer School: Public Classes

We offer a wide variety of classes, including Puppy Manners & Socialization, Basic Obedience (Fun Foundation 1, 2 & 3), a Reactive Dog Class, a Calm, Controlled Dog Class and Beginning Agility.  Click here to check out our class descriptions and current schedule!

Did You Know?

Hot air. Dogs have sweat glands between their paws, not, as commonly believed, in their tongues. But they do cool themselves somewhat by panting, which allows heat to escape through their breath.
 
Trifold protection. Dogs have three eyelids. The third one, a thin membrane that can extend across the eyeball, is there to keep the eye protected and lubricated.
 
Born to run. Like other running animals, dogs have no clavicles and have shoulder blades that are unattached to the skeleton for greater flexibility.
 
A singular snout. Your dog’s nose print is as unique as the human fingerprint and can be used equally well for identification.







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Staying Dry & Sane: How to Keep Your Dog Simulated, Happy & Active this Season | October - November 2010

Keeping Your Dog Busy & Stimulated in the Bad Weather

When the weather gets gross it's often hard to motivate ourselves - or our dogs! - to go outside and play or expend energy.  When dogs spend more time inside, it's easy for them to develop "cabin fever".  There's no reason to feel guilty, though.  While physical exercise is very important for your dog's health, mental stimulation is just as important - and is hugely underestimated.  Playing games or using interactive toys that make your dog think will tire them out just as much - if not more - than physical exercise, and is a great way to supplement your walking and fetch time - and keep yourselves dry!

Play the "find it" game.  Use high-valuse treats and hide a small piece under or behind a toy (you'll need to vary how difficult you make this depending on your dog's personality, etc.).  Make sure they see you hid it.  As they go for the food, say "find it".  Click (or say "yes) as they gulp it down.  Continue to do this, slowly increasing the difficulty as they get the hang of it.  Soon, you can start hiding treats around your house and your dog can search them out.  (Pictured are Zuke's Mini Naturals.  Click here to view catalog.)

 

Use Busy Buddies to feed your dog their meals.  Put their kibble in a toy - or a few toys - in place of their meals and it'll take them two to ten times as long to get through their meal because they have to work for it!  If your dog has a hard time when they don't get fed in a bowl at their normal time, feed them a quarter of their food in their bowl and the rest just as you leave for work in a couple Busy Buddies.  (Pictured is a Kibble Nibble.  Click here to view catalog.)

Leave your dog with a frozen, peanut butter stuffed KONG or a Bully Stick.  If they don't like peanut butter, use KONG's Stuff'N to fill the KONG.  If your dog really likes to chew, pick up the KONG when they're done and/or get a more heavy-duty one like the KONG Extreme. Bully Sticks are also a great, long-lasting alternative to rawhide, adn they break down in your dog's digestive system much better.  (Pictured is an Original KONG.  Click here to view catalog.)

Behavior issues?  Train your dog this season!  Make her think!  Simply training your dog (especially by using clicker or marker training rather than luring or another method) will make them have to use their brain.  Having trouble with your dog charging the door when the bell rings?  Teach them to go to their mat and stay, instead!  To train your dog to go to their bed, stand a couple feet away from the bed with treats.  If they step on it - even if it's just two feet at first - click or "yes" and treat them.  You can treat them off the bed so they have to walk off of it to get back on it again, or you can treat on the bed and then release them with an "OK" to start over.  Slowly increase your criteria by requiring that they put more feet on the bed, then you can eventually wait for them to sit or lay down on it, depending on what you want.  Don't start adding the cue until the behavior is 100% - you don't want to teach them that "go to your mat" actually means "stand there and stare at me" or "go see what's happening in the kitchen", right?


Toys, Treats & Gear, Oh My!

We're thrilled to announce our new Product Catalog and convenient ordering system!  We've carefully compiled a catalog chalk full of the toys, treats and gear we love most, and they've all been repeatedly dog-tested and approved.  We're forever searching for things to make your canine pal happy, healthy and stimulated, and we've got a great selection right at your fingertips.

Check out our catalog here. Then, fill out the order form (click here) and we'll hand-deliver them to you, free of charge!  It's that easy!

If you have any product or order questions, email us at info@happydoginstitute.com or give us a call: 360.915.7130.

New Class!  Creating a Focused & Calm Dog in Distracting Situations
We're really excited about this class.  It's great for dogs who are over-stimulated, easily distracted and those who are worriers and who get nervous around other dogs and people.  In fact, it's a great class for most any dog we can think of - unless there's nothing that distracts them and they're attached to your hip when you want them to 100% of the time, regardless of location (wouldn't that be nice?).  Click here to download our Fall and Winter schedule.  Click here to learn more about the class and do download the registration form.